TRAVELS
IN
NEW-ENGLAND AND NEW-YORK:
BY
TIMOTHY DWIGHT, S. T. D. LL. D,
LATE PRESIDENT OF YALE COLLEGE ; AUTHOR OF
THEOLOGY EXPLAINED AND DEFENDED IN FOUR VOLUMES.
NEW-HAVEN: PUBLISHED BY TIMOTHY DWIGHT.
S. CONVERSE, PRINTER.
1821-1822.
republished in 1969 by the John Harvard Library, Belknap Press of Harvard University, edited by Barbara Miller Solomon, with the assistance of Patricia M. King
CHAPTERS
Volume I
Introduction, by Barbara Miller Solomon ix
A Note on the Text xlix
Author's Preface 1
Journey to Berwick 13
Notes 381
Map: following page lxii
Volume II
Journey to Berwick (continued) 1
Journey to the White Mountains 30
Journey to the Canada Line 196
Journey to Vergennes 253
Journey to Provincetown 357
Notes 371
Map: following page xv
Volume III
Journey to Provincetown (continued) 1
Journey to Whitestown 101
State of New York (continued) 185
Journey to Long Island 198
First Journey to Lake George 236
Second Journey to Lake George 273
Notes 377
Map: following page xv
Volume IV
Journey to Niagara 1
First Journey to Lake Winnipesaukee or Wentworth 95
Second Journey to Lake Winnipesaukee or Wentworth 109
Journey to Utica 122
The Iroquois 129
Remarks on European Travelers in America 150
Language of New England 195
Learning, Morals, Etc. of New England 206
Religion of New England 258
Characteristics of the Men and Women in New England 327
Manufactures of New England 338
Massachusetts 351
Prospects of the United States 361
Notes 375
Index 399
Map: following page xv
Detailed CONTENTSVolume I
Preface 1
JOURNEY TO BERWICK
LETTER I
Boundaries of New England— Its coast, harbors, and lakes— General divisions— Population— Mountains— Rivers— Brooks, etc. 13
LETTER II
Soil— Mineralogy— Forest trees— Native and cultivated fruits— Flowering shrubs— Vegetables— Products of the field— Quadrupeds— Birds, insects, and fishes of New England 19
LETTER III
Climate and seasons— Northwest winds— Opinions relative to the causes of these winds examined— Facts proving that the climate has not be come milder— Successive periods of cold and heat— Causes of the cold produced by the northwest winds 38
LETTER IV
Climate of New England continued— Account of the most remarkable tempests which have been known in this country — Thunderstorms— Droughts— Enemies to vegetation 49
LETTER V
Frequent changes of temperature— Pleasant months— Seasons: time of their commencement— Variations of thermometers— Atmosphere— Quantity of rain 54
LETTER VI
Healthfulness of New England— Longevity of the inhabitants— Principal diseases— Epidemics— Tables showing the comparative health-fulness of New England and some of the southern states— Observations respecting the longevity of the inhabitants in the large towns 58
LETTER VII
Earthquakes which have been known in New England— Storms of wind— Rain and hail 66
LETTER VIII
Soil of New England— Misrepresentations relative to the country and its inhabitants— Forests: the manner in which they renew themselves— Husbandry— Produce of different crops— Defects in the husbandry— Face of the country beautiful 73
LETTER IX
General account of the Indians of New England— Divisions of their nations or tribes— Their character, passions, and manners— Their wigwams, agriculture, wars, treatment of captives, government, knowledge of medicine, religion, morals, and language— Considerations relative to their origin 78
LETTER X
Discovery and colonization of New England— Mr. Robinson and his church escape from persecution in England and take refuge in Holland— They embark for America and settle at Plymouth— Settlement of Salem, Charlestown, and Boston; of Hartford, Windsor, etc. in Connecticut; of Portsmouth, etc. in New Hampshire; and of Providence in Rhode Island— Feeble attempts to plant towns in the District of Maine 93
LETTER XI
Difficulties encountered by the colonists of New England— Wars with the Indians— Hostility of King James II— Troubles arising from the neighborhood of the French in Canada— Opposition of the British government to the rights of the colonies— Oppressive measures of Parliament which terminated in the Revolutionary War and in the independence of the United States 103
LETTER XII
Charges preferred against the colonists of New England examined: viz., their separation from the Church of England, their superstition, their rigidness, their observance of the Sabbath with Jewish rigor, their adoption of the municipal law of the Jews, their resistance to the British government, their oppression of the aborigines 115
LETTER XIII
Excellencies of the colonists of New England: viz., their enterprise and industry— Their love of science and learning— Their love of liberty— Their morality— Their piety 121
LETTER XIV
General view of Connecticut— Its counties, towns, cities, congregations of different denominations of Christians— Number of schools and scholars 125
LETTER XV
Commencement of the journey to Berwick in 1796 from New Haven— Account of New Haven, its harbor, soil, squares and streets, build ings, churches, inhabitants, commerce, and places of burial— Character of its inhabitants— Market and prices of provisions— State of society— Population 129
LETTER XVI
History of the establishment and progress of Yale College 143
LETTER XVII
Account of Yale College continued— Its principal benefactors— Course of studies— Medical institution— Examinations— Annual commencement— Degrees conferred— Government of the college— Its parental character— Number of its alumni 149
LETTER XVIII
Northford— Tenure of lands— Durham— Rev. Dr. Goodrich— Middletown— Beautiful prospects— Account of great speculations in stocks and lands 155
LETTER XIX
Stepney— Prospect from Rocky Hill— Wethersfield— Story of William Beadle— Hartford— Its public buildings— Soil— Commerce and population— Rev. Thomas Hooker 162
LETTER XX
Government of Connecticut— Duties and privileges of counties and of towns 174
LETTER XXI
Observations on the constitution of towns— Schools of public business— Their measures, sources of political knowledge, and stability in the government 179
LETTER XXII
Original constitution of Connecticut— Observations on it and on its influence 183
LETTER XXIII
Elections of Connecticut— Advantages of them— Inroads made on their purity 186
LETTER XXIV
General election of Connecticut 194
LETTER XXV
Legislature of Connecticut 196
LETTER XXVI
Judicial courts of Connecticut 198
LETTER XXVII
Penal system of Connecticut— Newgate Prison 301
LETTER XXVIII
Executive of Connecticut— Observations concerning the system of government 205
LETTER XXIX
Benefits derived by the American colonists from their origin— Defects of the government of Connecticut 214
LETTER XXX
Journey to Springfield— Windsor— Hardships encountered by the first settlers— Hon. Mr. Ellsworth 217
LETTER XXXI
Change of forest vegetation— Suffield— Major General Lyman— Military adventures 322
LETTER XXXII
Springfield— Indian attack on Springfield— Chicopee— South Hadley Canal— South Hadley 231
LETTER XXXIII
Northampton— Character of its inhabitants— Rev. Solomon Stoddard— Hon. John Stoddard— President Edwards— Hon. Joseph Hawley— Manner of settling towns in New England 238
LETTER XXXIV
Northampton records 248
LETTER XXXV
Hadley— Gov. Hopkins' donation— Goffe and Whalley— Prospect from Mount Holyoke255
LETTER XXXVI
Belchertown— Ware— Western— Brookfield— Their troubles from the Indians— Spencer— Leicester— Worcester 261
LETTER XXXVII
Shrewsbury— Hon. Artemas Ward— Northboro— Rabbi Judah Monis— County of Worcester— Its surface, fertility, agriculture, and productions— Failure in its crops of wheat— List of its towns and population 268
LETTER XXXVIII
Marlboro— The barberry bush destructive to the cultivation of wheat— Lakes of New England uniformly healthy, being supplied with water by subjacent springs— Diseases in the neighborhood of standing waters, occasioned by animalcular putrefaction— Stow— Concord— Expedition of the British at the commencement of the Revolutionary War to this town and Lexington— Reflections on this subject 276
LETTER XXXIX
Bedford— Billerica— Tewksbury— Middlesex Canal— Andover— Phillips Academy— Theological institution— Lieutenant Governor Phillips— Bradford— Haverhill— Bridge over the Merrimack at Haverhill— Dry rot in timber— Canal from the Merrimack to Lake Winnipesaukee— Depredations of the Indians— Story of Mr. and Mrs. Dustin 285
LETTER XL
Plaistow— Kingston— Exeter: its academy— Effect of easterly winds— Piscataqua Bridge and River— Dover, cruelty of the Indians; death of Major Waldron— Story of Mrs. Heard— Somersworth— Berwick, attacked by the Indians; death of Robert Rogers— View of the White Mountains— Inns of New England 301
LETTER XLI
Portsmouth— Greenland— Northampton— Hampton— Hampton Falls— Salisbury— Newbury— Newburyport— Rowley— Ipswich— Hamilton— Wenham— Beverly— Salem— Its public buildings, harbor, enterprise and industry of the inhabitants— Rev. Dr. Prince— Hugh Peters— Commerce of Salem— Danvers— Account of the witchcraft of that place, and reflections 311
LETTER XLII
Marblehead — Lynn — County of Essex — Maiden — Dr. Thacher — Charlestown 332
LETTER XLIII
Battle of Breed's Hill— Major General Warren— Burning of Charlestown by the British— Hon. James Russell 338
LETTER XLIV
Cambridge— Harvard College— Its buildings— List of its presiding officers— Number of students— Terms of Admission— Board of Overseers and Corporation— Library, etc., etc.— Distinguished inhabitants of Cambridge 346
LETTER XLV
Boston: the chief town in New England— Its streets laid out in an unfortunate manner— Its ancient and modern houses— Its public buildings and bridges 359
LETTER XLVI
Boston— Its commercial institutions— Its literary and charitable societies — Its common schools, police, commerce, and manufactures 360
LETTER XLVII
Character of the inhabitants of Boston 365
LETTER XLVIII
Fashionable education 370
LETTER XLIX
Boston surrounded by pleasant towns and villages— Prospect from the statehouse— Distinguished men— Governor Bowdoin 376
Notes 381
Volume II
JOURNEY TO BERWICK [continued]
LETTER L
Carver— Middleboro— Taunton: its manufactures— Halifax— Bridgewater— Honorable Hugh Orr— Raynham— Longevity of the Leonard family— Philip, King of the Wampanoags— Attleboro— Rev. Habijah Weld— Rehoboth— Indian depredations— North Providence 1
LETTER LI
Providence— College— Public buildings— Major General Greene— Commerce of Providence 15
LETTER LII
Rhode Island turnpikes— Johnstown— Scituate— Coventry— Sterling— Plainfield 20
LETTER LIII
Preston— Lisbon— The Shetucket— Quinebaug and Thames Rivers— Norwich— Governor Huntington 23
LETTER LIV
Montville— Mohegan tribe of Indians— Uncas the chief sachem— Return 26
JOURNEY TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
LETTER I
North Haven— Wallingford— Meriden— Berlin— Mount Lamentation— Manufacture of tinware 30
LETTER II
Hatfield— Whately— Deerfield— Battles with the Indians at Bloody Brook and Hatfield— Deerfield River— Burning of Deerfield, and captivity of Rev. Mr. Williams and many of the inhabitants 35
LETTER III
Progress of vegetation— Greenfield— Bernardston— Gill— Battle with the Indians, called the Fall Fight— Northfield— Attacks of the Indians 46
LETTER IV
Hinsdale— Indications of a volcano in West River Mountain— Defeat of the Indians by Captain Hobbs— Capture of Bridgman's fort— Account of the captivity of Mrs. Howe, her sufferings, and return to New England 51
LETTER V
Chesterfield— Westmoreland— Walpole— Colonel Bellows 57
LETTER VI
Bellows Falls— Cavities worn in the rocks by the river— Canal— The first bridge over Connecticut River erected at this place by Colonel Enoch Hale— Governor's meadow 59
LETTER VII
Charlestown— Indian depredations— Gallant conduct of Captain Phineas Stevens 65
LETTER VIII
Claremont— Cornish— Windsor— Ascutney— Luminous spot on the mountain— Hartland— Plainfield— Lebanon— Lebanon Falls 68
LETTER IX
Origin of Dartmouth College— Rev. Sampson Occom— Funds of the college— Its number of students and officers— Its course of studies and buildings— Extreme difficulty of educating Indian youth— Dartmouth— Hanover 73
LETTER X
Lyme— Orford— Piermont— Haverhill 78
LETTER XI
Lower Ammonoosuc— Bath— Concord— Girdled trees— Log houses— Letter of Rev. Mr. Patten— Dangerous state of the roads and bridges in the new settlements— Littleton 81
LETTER XII
Public roads— Dalton— Lancaster: slow progress of its settlement— Climate of this region— Snowstorms and prevailing winds singularly affected by the proximity of the White Mountains— Extensive and beautiful landscape 88
LETTER XIII
Character and enterprise of Rosebrook 95
LETTER XIV
Notch of the White Mountains— Headwaters of the Ammonoosuc and the Saco— Appearance of an American forest when affected by frost— Magnificent appearance of the White Mountains 97
LETTER XV
Bartlett— Politician— Conway 103
LETTER XVI
Fryeburg— Hiram— Observations on Mount Washington— Standish— Gorham— Falmouth 107
LETTER XVII
Portland— Its buildings and commerce— Attacks from the Indians— Wantonly destroyed by Captain Mowat in 1775 113
LETTER XVIII
Story of General Wadsworth— Attack on his house— His capture 117
LETTER XIX
Story of General Wadsworth concluded— Major Burton 124
LETTER XX
Vernon— Tolland— Stafford— Mineral spring— South Brimfield— Kittery— York— Wells— Kennebunk— Portland 136
LETTER XXI
Falmouth— North Yarmouth— Freeport— Brunswick— Bowdoin College 142
LETTER XXII
Bath— Woolwich— Dresden— Pittston— Gardiner— Augusta— Hallowell— Litchfield— Topsham— The Androscoggin— The Kennebec 146
LETTER XXIII
Tornado— Scarboro— Saco— Biddeford— Arundel 152
LETTER XXIV
Maine— Its climate— Coast— Soil— Manner of settlement— Difficulties encountered by the first settlers— Their character 156
LETTER XXV
Madbury— Epping— Chester— Londonderry— Nottingham West— Dunstable, N.H.— Dunstable, Mass.— Lovewell's Excursions— Groton— Indian depredations 167
LETTER XXVI
Shirley— Lancaster— Captivity of Mrs. Rowlandson— Mr. Sawyer— Sterling— Princeton— Rutland— Oakham— New Braintree— Brimfield— Monson— South Wilbraham 174
LETTER XXVII
County of Hampshire— Rev. Dr. Backus 183
LETTER XXVIII
Ellington— East Windsor— Fragment of Indian history— East Hartford 191
JOURNEY TO THE CANADA LINE
LETTER I
New road from New Haven to Hartford— Whitney's cotton gin and manufactory of firearms— Guilford— Brattleboro— West River 196
LETTER II
Dummerston — Putney — Westminster — Rockingham — Bethlehem — Wentworth Mountains— Hardships endured by the first settlers— Notch of the White Mountains— Jefferson— Fine view of two cascades 202
LETTER III
Northumberland— Little Moosilauke— Upper Ammonoosuc— Stratford— The Peaks— Wales's location— Cockburn— Colebrook— Road to Hallowell— Grand Monadnock— Canaan— Settlements beyond the line on the St. Francis— Enterprise of the New England people 208
LETTER IV
Stewart— Salmon— Vegetation and products of this region— Account of maize— Native animals— Return to Lancaster 213
LETTER V
Weather in the country about Lancaster— Prospect at Newbury— Vegetation at Lancaster 216
LETTER VI
Connecticut River 219
LETTER VII
Valley of the Connecticut 224
LETTER VIII
Inhabitants of the Connecticut Valley 229
LETTER IX
Newbury— Observations on the blasting of wheat— Bradford— Fairlee 233
LETTER X
Keene 239
LETTER XI
Swansey— Winchester— The Ashuelot— Millers River and Falls— Montague— Sunderland— Mount Toby— Cave 242
LETTER XII
Shutesbury— Ephraim Pratt— Amherst— Judge Strong 247
JOURNEY TO VERGENNES
LETTER I
Woodbridge— Salem— Waterbury— Watertown— Litchfield— The late Governor Wolcott— Goshen— Cornwall— Canaan— Sheffield— Taconic Mountain— Great Barrington— Monument Mountain— Stockbridge— Rev. John Sargeant— Mahican or Stockbridge Indians— Tradition concerning their origin, etc.— Lenox— Pittsfield— Lanesboro— New Ashford 253
LETTER II
Saddle Mountain— Williamstown— Col. Williams— Williams College 270
LETTER III
Donations for the promotion of learning— Insect— Rev. Mr. Swift 273
LETTER IV
Pownal— Bennington— Grasshoppers— Shaftsbury— Violent rain— Arlington— Sunderland— Colonel Ethan Allen— Manchester— Dorset— Harwich— Wallingford— Clarendon 279
LETTER V
Rutland— Judge Williams— Pittsford— Brandon— Leicester— Salisbury — Middlebury— Marble quarry— Middlebury College— Woodstock— Barnard— Stockbridge— Rochester— Hancock— Ripton 287
LETTER VI
Weybridge— New Haven— Vergennes— Settled by Colonel Allen— Prospect from the statehouse 293
LETTER VII
Ferrisburg — Charlotte — Shelburne — Burlington — College — Prospect from Burlington— Colchester— Milton— Georgia— St. Albans— Swanton— Highgate 295
LETTER VIII
Essex— Jericho— Bolton— Waterbury— Observations on the attempts of modern philosophers to disprove the Mosaic era of the creation— Onion River 299
LETTER IX
Montpelier— Fixed upon as the seat of government— Berlin— Williamstown— Brookfield— Randolph— Royalton— Sharon— Hartford 303
LETTER X
New Haven Falls— Panton— Addison— Forests— Hickory— Equivocal generation of plants— Major General Strong— Rev. Dr. Swift 307
LETTER XI
Crown Point fortress— Conduct of the French government toward the colonists of the United States, and reflections on its character 311
LETTER XII
Lake Champlain— Healthfulness of its borders— Trade— Bridport— Shoreham— Cornwall— Orwell— Benson— West Haven— Fair Haven 315
LETTER XIII
Account of the state of Vermont— Mode of forming new settlementst— Character of the settlers 319
LETTER XIV
Manner of forming new settlements, and character of new settlers continued 325
LETTER XV
State of Vermont— Its settlement— Account of its government 329
LETTER XVI
Hampton— Poultney— Granville— Westfield— Kingsbury— Sandy Hill— Glens Falls— Queensbury— Schenectady— Union College— Attack of the French and Indians on Schenectady in 1690— Rev. Dr. Romeyn— Rev. Dr. John B. Smith— Rev. Robert Smith 334
LETTER XVII
Albany— Settled by the Dutch— Observations on public taste— Trade of Albany— Major General Schuyler— Greenbush— Schodack— Stephentown— New Lebanon 344
LETTER XVIII
Richmond— West Stockbridge— Salisbury— Cataract at that place— Sharon— Amenia— Washington 351
JOURNEY TO PROVINCETOWN
LETTER I
East Haven— Branford— Guilford— Its burying ground— Whitefish used as a manure— Killingworth— Saybrook— Its settlement and fortresst— Lady Fenwick's monument 357
LETTER II
Lyme— New London— Invasion and burning of New London and Groton by Arnold and Eyre— Murder of Colonel Ledyard 365
Notes 371
Volume III
JOURNEY TO PROVINCETOWN [continued]
LETTER III
Groton— Account of the Pequots— War between the colonists and that tribe— Gallant attack and destruction of one of their forts by Captain Mason and his troops— Pursuit of the Pequots to Fairfield, and their final destruction— Death of Sassacus 1
LETTER IV
Stonington, cultivated partly by tenants— Indians still remaining here — Their degraded character and situation— The perfection to which man arrives in a state of nature— General observations upon the remnants of the Indian tribes now found in New England— Means of effecting their civilization 10
LETTER V
Westerly— Charlestown— South Kingston— Aboriginal tribes formerly inhabiting New England— Their population— Number of warriors as estimated by General Gookin— War with the Narragansets— Attack and capture of their fortress— Gallant conduct of Captain Denison and others— Death of Nanuntenoo 20
LETTER VI
Conanicut Island— Newport: its buildings, harbor, and fortifications— Proposition of the French government relative to the occupancy of Newport— Remarkable cliffs and chasm— Enumeration of the fish brought to this market— Healthfulness and commerce of Newport— Its settlement 28
LETTER VII
Battle between the Americans under General Sullivan and the British commanded by Sir Robert Pigot— Stone bridge— Tiverton— State of Rhode Island— Its boundaries and divisions— Original settlement— State of religion and learning— Common schools 36
LETTER VIII
Helburne Woods— Westport— New Bedford— Its situation, commerce, and settlement— Attack on Fairhaven by the British in 1778— Gallant defense of the place by Major Fearing— Rochester— Wareham— Proposed canal across the peninsula of Cape Cod— Sandwich 42
LETTER IX
Country between Sandwich and Barnstable— Barnstable— Yarmouth— Saltworks of Cape Cod— Observations on the extent of this manufacture— Difficulties of Christianizing the Indians— Dennis— Harwich— Orleans 49
LETTER X
Eastham— Truro— Provincetown— Beach grass, its utility— Soil very thin and blown away from the white sand beneath— Manners and habits of the inhabitants of Provincetown— Its fisheries and harbor— Wellfleet— Return to Harwich— Innkeeper 57
LETTER XI
Return to Sandwich— Mission among the Indians at Mashpee— Visit to the Rev. Gideon Hawley, the missionary— Description of the peninsula of Cape Cod— Its soil, population, etc. 67
LETTER XII
Plymouth: the first town settled in New England— Rock on which the colonists first landed— Their cemetery— Reflections on the care of Divine Providence over them— Fisheries and commerce of Plymouth 72
LETTER XIII
Kingston — Marshfield — Scituate — Hingham — Weymouth — Braintree— Quincy— Milton— Dorchester— Its early settlement— For tifications erected by General Washington— Roxbury— Rev. John Eliot, the Apostle of the Indians 78
LETTER XIV
Dedham— Hon. Mr. Ames— Medfield: attacked by the Indians— Medway— Bellingham— Mendon— Peculiar kind of sheep— Uxbridge— Douglas— Forests— Thompson— The Quinebaug and country on its borders — Pomfret — Ashford — Mansfield — Coventry — Bolton— Willington— Gap in the Bolton Hills 85
LETTER XV
Brooklyn— Major General Putnam— Canterbury 95
JOURNEY TO WHITESTOWN
LETTER I
Tourney to New Lebanon— Shakers 101
LETTER II
Account of the Shakers continued
LETTER III
Tourney from New Lebanon to Minden— Valley of the Mohawk— Canajoharie— Minden— Thoughts on religious persecution— Palatines— German Flats— Utica— New Hartford— Brothertown— Brothertown Indians— Observations on the differences of complexion in the human race 116
LETTER IV
Hamilton— Oneida Academy— Paris— Iron mine— The measures adopted for the support of religion in this state unhappy and the laws imperfect— Rome— Battle between the English and Indians under Sir John Johnson and the American militia under General Herkimer— Canal— Siege of Fort Stanwix 129
LETTER V
Story of Captain Greg— Whitesboro— Judge White— Herkimer— Canal at Little Falls— Captain Butler— Destruction of Cherry Valley— Canajoharoo— Canajoharie 137
LETTER VI
Story of Mr. Fonda— Sir William Johnson— Prospect from Tribes Hill— Johnstown— Amsterdam— Character of Hon. John Jay, and of William Pitt Beers, Esq.— Cohoes— Waterford— Half Moon— Stillwater— Saratoga 145
LETTER VII
Progress of General Burgoyne— Desertion of Ticonderoga— Battle of Hubbardton; of Battle Hill— Wise measures of General Schuyler— Defeat of Colonels Baum and Breymann— Battles of September 19th and October 7th— Surrender of General Burgoyne— Reflections 152
LETTER VIII
Saratoga— Fort Miller— Fort Edward— Cambridge— Argyle— The Batten Kill— Easton— Greenwich— Scotch settlers— Journey to Williamstown— Petersburg— Pownal— Excursion to the summit of Saddle Mountain— Natural bridge 162
LETTER IX
Journey to Pittsfield— Bursting of a cloud— Observations on forest trees— Difference in the quantity of snow falling in places near to each other— Curious origin of a thunderstorm and of a tornado— Account of moving rocks— White frosts— Return 172
STATE OF NEW YORK, continued
LETTER I
State of New York— Its extent and population— Account of what has been done for the support of learning and religion— The different sects into which it is divided 185
LETTER II
Constitution of the state— Legislature— Electors— Executive— Courts— Council of Appointment and Supreme Court of Errors so constituted as to affect the state in a manner unfortunate and mischievous 193
JOURNEY TO LONG ISLAND
LETTER I
Passage from Norwalk to Huntington— Lloyd Neck— Town of Huntington— Smithtown— Setauket— Brookhaven— Riverhead— Its courts — Southold— Oyster Point— Fishers Island— Plum Island 198
LETTER II
General observations on the northern parts of Long Island, and on the stones and sand of which it is composed— Influence of the Gulf Stream in depositing sand on the eastern coast of the United States— Cultivation of wheat— Account of the Hessian fly— Forest trees— Fruit trees— Improvement in agriculture— Scarcity of brooks and millstreams— Fisheries 204
LETTER III
Shelter Island— Sag Harbor— The peninsula of Montauk— Indians who inhabit it— Lighthouse— East Hampton— Manners of the in habitants— Honorable efforts of the people to maintain the government of law and to discountenance vice— Settled from New England— Suffolk County— Gardiners Island— Bridgehampton— Southampton— Canoe Place— Westhampton— The Fireplace 214
LETTER IV
Isliip— Hempstead plain— Grouse plain— Huntington— Oyster Bay— Hempstead— North Hempstead— Flushing— Mr. Prince's fruit yard— Jamaica— Ride from Jamaica to Brooklyn— Vegetation on different parts of the island affected by the prevailing winds— Bushwick 234
LETTER V
Brooklyn— Prospect from the heights— Battle between the British under Gen. Howe, and the Americans under Gen. Putnam— Retreat of the American army to New York— The East River— Kings County settled by the Dutch— Character of the inhabitants— Quakers— Return 230
FIRST JOURNEY TO LAKE GEORGE
LETTER I
Journey through Goshen, etc. to the head of Lake George— Voyage across the lake— Excursion to Ticonderoga— Return to the head of the lake— Manner of hunting deer— Huntsman— Overtake a buck swimming on the lake— Fort William Henry— Bloody Pond 236
LETTER II
Description of Lake George— Prevalent winds— Fish— Water of the lake uncommonly pure and supplied by subjacent springs— Mills and forges— Fine scenery of the lake— The water— Islands— Shore and mountains— View while returning from Ticonderoga 244
LETTER III
Battle of Lake George— General Johnson wounded— Gen. Lyman takes the command of the English army and defeats the French— Vindication of Gen. Lyman's character— Hendrick, chief of the Mohawks— Baron Dieskau 252
LETTER IV
Attack on Fort William Henry— Gallant defense by Col. Monroe— Capitulation and massacre— Gen. Webb's expedition to Ticonderoga— Retreat of the English army— Journey continued— Dalton— Partridgefield— Worthington— Chesterfield— Westhampton 263
SECOND JOURNEY TO LAKE GEORGE
LETTER I
North Milford— Derby— Manufactory at Humphreysville— Housatonic River— Oxford— Southbury— New Milford— Lakes anciently existing in the courses of rivers 273
LETTER II
Indian monument— Kent— Major General Swift— Journey from Salisbury Cataract to Lake George— Caldwell— Northumberland— Moreau— Saratoga Springs— Ballston Springs— Lansingburgh— Troy — Albany— Hudson— Livingston— Clermont— Rhinebeck— Clinton— Poughkeepsie— Fishkill— Philipstown 282
LETTER III
Colonel B. Robinson— Prospect in the Highlands— Visit to Forts Mont gomery and Clinton— Expedition of the British up the Hudson— Peekskill— Cortland— Prospect of the Hudson and its shores below the Highlands— Mount Pleasant— Greenburgh— Yonkers— Capture and death of Major Andre— The river Hudson and its tributary streams 301
LETTER IV
City of New York— Its settlement and extent— Its streets, churches, and other public buildings— City Hall— Hospital— State prison— Bridewell and city prison— Old and new almshouse— Political and benevolent societies— Columbia College— College of Physicians and Surgeons— Elgin Botanic Garden— Schools— Literary societies— Orphan asylum— Markets— Banks and insurance companies— Commerce— Exports and amount of duties 314
LETTER V
Origin of the inhabitants of New York— Their industry— Rapid increase of the city— Economy of the citizens— Their hospitality— Respect for religion— Intelligence— Language— Amusements— Religious character— Police— Receipts and expenditures of the treasury— Water— Ferryboats— Appearance of the city and the adjacent country — Distinguished men 329
LETTER VI
Island of Manhattan— Country seats— Roads— Battle of Harlem— Surrender of Fort Washington— Harlem Bridge— Westchester— Army of General Howe— Eastchester— New Rochelle— Mamaroneck— Rye — Mr. Jay— County of Westchester— Appearance of this country in 1777 337
LETTER VII
Greenwich— Putnam's hill— Stamford— Hon. Abraham Davenport— Rev. Dr. Wells— Hon. James Davenport— Shippan— Middlesex— Rev. Dr. Mather— Burning of Norwalk— Fairfield— Expedition of the British troops to Danbury— General Wooster— General Silliman— Rev. Mr. Hobart— Burning of Fairfield— Reflections— Burning of Greens Farms 346
LETTER VIII
Stratford— Bridgeport— Rev. Dr. Johnson— County of Fairfield— Its boundaries, surface, soil, divisions, healthfulness, etc.— Milford— Rev. Samuel Andrew— Milford marble— Long Island Sound— Hell Gate, or Hurlgate 363
LETTER IX
State of New York— Its boundaries— Mountains— Rivers and agriculturet— Iron ore and marble— Gypsum— Inhabitants, whence derived — New England settlers— Their character— Irish, German, and Scotch colonists— French Protestants 370
Notes 377
Volume IV
JOURNEY TO NIAGARA
LETTER I
Journey to Sheffield— White marble— Rapid descent of the streams which fall into the Hudson and into the Housatonic— Egremont— Manor of Livingston— Claverack— Character of first settlers in little landing places— Catskill— Canton— Durham— Catskill Mountains— Bristol— Blenheim— Stamford— Harpersfield— Meredith— White pine tree— Franklin— Sidney— Miserable inns— Troublesome innkeeper— Unadilla— Oxford— Norwich— Jericho— Chenango River and valley — Sherburne— Hamilton— Cazenovia 1
LETTER II
Holland Company— Face of the country from Sullivan to Canandaigua — Manlius— Varieties of names given to townships— Onondaga— Salt springs— Marcellus— Early fall of snow— Skaneateles Lake— Aurelius— Cayuga Bridge— Account of lakes in this region— Junius— Geneva— Seneca Lake 18
LETTER III
Easton— Canandaigua— Bloomfield— Charleston— Hartford— Genesee River— Genesee flats— Oak plains— Their peculiar appearance, owing to fires kindled by the Indians— Their soil productive— County of Genesee— Buffalo— View of the lake, etc.— Beautiful collection of clouds 30
LETTER IV
Brief account of the Great Lakes which supply the river Niagara— Lake Superior— Its islands, rivers, etc.— River St. Marys— Its only outlet— Opinion that there are subterraneous outlets examined— Lake Huron— Lake Michigan— Island of Mackinac— Huron River— Lake St. Clair— Lake Erie— Evidence that the waters of these lakes are lower than they formerly were 46
LETTER V
River Niagara— Properly called the St. Lawrence— Islands in the river— General appearance and character of this region— Cataract of Niagara 52
LETTER VI
A passage behind the sheet of water of the cataract practicable at some times and not at others— Explanation of this phenomenon— Retrogression of the cataract considered 63
LETTER VII
Severe storm— General observations upon the western part of New York— Excessive value placed upon lands covered with vegetable mold— Climate and prevalent winds of this region— Western district of New York unhealthy— Diseases— Fever and ague— Goiters— Pulmonary affections rare 70
LETTER VIII
General observations upon the western part of New York continued— Want of stone for building and fencing— Defective supply and quality of its timber— Water impregnated with lime— Commerce— Different outlets for its commodities 83
LETTER IX
Return slowly along the Mohawk to Albany— Kinderhook— Hudson— Uncommon phenomena observed on Taconic Mountain 88
FIRST JOURNEY TO LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE OR WENTWORTH
LETTER I
Journey to Andover— Atkinson— Hampstead— Chester— Pembroke— Concord— Boscawen— Salisbury— Sanbornton— Gilmantown— Meredith— Center Harbor— Winnipesaukee Lake— Its extent— Fed by subjacent springs— Its numerous and beautiful islands 95
LETTER II
Holderness— Squam Lake— Plymouth— Baker River— Rumney— Wentworth— Warren— Ryegate— Barnet— St. Johnsbury— Lyndon— Sheffield— Premature frosts— Lebanon Falls— Boating on Connecticut River— Governor Griswold 102
SECOND JOURNEY TO LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE OR WENTWORTH
LETTER I
Tourney to Andover through Providence— To Portsmouth through Newburyport— Rochester— Norway plain— Middleton— Wolfboro— Governor Wentworth— Tuftonboro— Moultonboro— Prospect of the Lake Winnipesaukee or Wentworth from the Red Mountain— Squam or Sullivan's Lake— Return 109
LETTER II
General remarks upon New Hampshire— Its population, soil, and agriculture— Form of government— Support of religion 115
JOURNEY TO UTICA
Description of the Catskill Mountains— Extensive prospect from the summit— Journey to Utica— Hamilton College— Cavities worn by the Mohawk in the rocks at Little Falls— Return 122
THE IROQUOIS
LETTER I
Authorities consulted in the following account of the Iroquois— Their form of government— Their story relative to the creation of man— Their mythology as related by the Oneidas 129
LETTER II
Government of the Iroquois— Sachems— Customs and laws of the nation 136
LETTER III
Origin of the Iroquois— Their warlike character— Their faithfulness in keeping treaties— Their eloquence and language— Mischiefs produced by ardent spirits— The effects of General Sullivan's march through their country— Feast or thanksgiving of the Senecas 141
REMARKS ON EUROPEAN TRAVELERS IN AMERICA
LETTER I
Volney 150
LETTER II
Weld 158
LETTER III
Duke de La Rochefoucauld 164
LETTER IV
Lambert 179
LANGUAGE OF NEW ENGLAND
LETTER I
The English language in this country pronounced more correctly than in England— Blunders in language customary in London— Reasons why the people of New England pronounce the English language with propriety 195
LETTER II
The inhabitants of this country charged with retaining obsolete words, with introducing new words, with annexing new significations to words— Alterations in language less in this country than in England for the last two hundred years— Vindication of this conduct 199
LEARNING, MORALS, ETC. OF NEW ENGLAND
LETTER I
Schools— System of Connecticut— Schools of New England— Effects of this education on the people at large— Hon. Roger Sherman 206
LETTER II
Academies in New England— Colleges— State of these institutions in 1812— Law and theological seminaries— Medical, historical, and philosophical societies— Social libraries 212
LETTER III
Observations of Buffon, De Pauw, etc. relative to the deterioration of animals; of the bodies and of the minds of men in America— Genius, what and whence derived— Genius of Americans— Literature and science of the Americans— Men of learning— Causes why they are not numerous 217
LETTER IV
Opinion of the Edinburgh Review relative to the literature of America — President Edwards— Rev. Dr. Edwards— Dr. Franklin— Dr. Rittenhouse and other natural philosophers— Ingenious and useful inventions— McFingal— Progress of learning in Great Britain from the eighth century 227
LETTER V
Manners and morals of the people of New England— Executions during the Revolutionary War— Capital punishments in the county of New Haven in 175 years— Duels in New England since its settlement— Inhabitants all required to be in the possession of arms— The poor supported and educated— Public and private charities 235
LETTER VI
Various traits of character of the people of New England, compared with similar traits of the inhabitants of Great Britain— Difficulties found by Englishmen in judging of the character and circumstances of the people of this country 239
LETTER VII
Modes of living— Amusements— People of New England fond of acquiring knowledge— Happy effects of this trait of character— The Sabbath observed with sobriety and reverence— Marriages— Funerals 248
RELIGION OF NEW ENGLAND
LETTER I
History of religion in New England from the year 1755— Effects of the French and Revolutionary Wars— Evils arising from the introduction of foreigners into the country 258
LETTER II
State of religion after the peace of 1783— Effects of the French Revolution— Circulation of the writings of infidels 263
LETTER III
The effects of the principles avowed by the leaders of the French Revolution, counteracted and destroyed in a great measure by their cruelties and impiety, and by the miseries they brought on other nations— These effects likewise lessened by the efforts of the clergy and of many other respectable inhabitants, but principally by an extensive revival of religion— Comparison of the religious and moral character of the first settlers with that of the present inhabitants 270
LETTER IV
Establishment of the public worship of God in Connecticut 279
LETTER V
Vindication of the establishment of the public worship of God by law 283
LETTER VI
Education of candidates for the ministry, and settlement of clergymen 291
LETTER VII
Influence of the clergy in Connecticut: its nature and derivation 295
LETTER VIII
Confession of faith and articles of church discipline agreed to at Saybrook in 1708 by the delegates of the churches— History of the proceedings relative to this subject— Observations 299
LETTER IX
Comparison of the state of religion in England with that in New England— English representations of the state of religion here refuted 308
LETTER X
Articles of faith held by the first settlers of New England— Episcopalians, Baptists, Universalists, Methodists, and Antinomians— Jemima Wilkinson— Roman Catholics— Friends— Sandemanians— Shakers 318
LETTER XI
Number of congregations and of ministers in Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, Connecticut, and Vermont— Churches distributed at small distances 322
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MEN AND WOMEN IN NEW ENGLAND
LETTER I
The personal appearance of the inhabitants— Their gravity, etc.— General remarks on the influence of theaters and plays on society 327
LETTER II
Opinion of a writer in the Quarterly Review relative to the women of this country examined— The features, manners, and employments of the women of New England— Their education 332
MANUFACTURES OF NEW ENGLAND
Extracts from the Report of the Secretary of the Treasury, April 19, 1810— General account of the manufactures of Massachusetts and of Connecticut— Account of the manufactures of Rhode Island, with a history of their origin 338
MASSACHUSETTS
LETTER I
The state of Massachusetts— Its boundaries, population, and government 351
LETTER II
Laws relative to schools and the qualifications of schoolmasters; concerning the maintenance of ministers and the establishment of public worship— Early laws for the support of Harvard College— Crimes punished by death— Militia 356
PROSPECTS OF THE UNITED STATES
LETTER I
Opinions of foreigners relative to the future prospects of our country— Bishop Berkeley's views of this subject in verse— Extent, waters, soil, productions, and population of the United States 361
LETTER II
Enterprise, ingenuity, intelligence, means of acquiring knowledge; laws, morals, language, and liberty of the people of the United States— Extent of country yet to be settled— Institutions of the country in a state of improvement— Increase of evangelical religion and Catholicism— Future prospects of the United States 365
Notes 375
Index 399